Mineral Cosmetics and their Ingredients: Part two

We know that Parabens are in almost everything we eat and use on our skin and hair daily!

Parabens prevent mold, bacterial and fungal contamination. Widespread types of parabens include: Methylparaben, which is readily absorbed from the gastrointestinal tract or through the skin. More importantly p-hydroxybenzoic acid is rapidly excreted without accumulation in the body, which is good news as it is the one paraben found in most products use daily. Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Butylparaben and Benzylparaben. Are used as well. I am not writing an article on parabens, the only reason I bring them up is if you have skin issues that are caused by parabens, then read the label of your cosmetics to see if they are listed.

I would like to put my 2 cents in on the use of parabens. Although their function to prevent mold, bacterial and fungal contamination; think what might happen to the products that don't have any parabens in them? Take mascara, my studies found that paraben free mascara was useless. As without parabens, it makes mascara flaky, and worse the overall texture were clumpy! Do you remember the 1% or less rules I told you in part one? Well, my research showed that mascara's that had even the smallest amount of parabens like 1/10th of 1 percent and as low as 0.15 of 1 percent of parabens. Was amazingly great mascara in that they didn't flake or clump and the ones that had a cream base stayed all day! Creating beautiful eyelashes, and they were as low as 0.15 of one percent containing parabens!!!

There are some cosmetics that don't ever need parabens. Take eyeliners and lip liners. If they contain natural plant parts and custom mineral blends. With the base formula of oils and natural waxes with ingredients like vitamin E (made from the soy plant) as well as Mica, Iron Oxides and Titanium Dioxide.

Quality Mineral lipsticks also don't need any parabens in them. My own lipstick research taught me that if a formulator uses quality ingredients. One can delete all dyes, fillers and lakes and only uses pure pigment for coloring. Ingredients like Castor Oil, Sesame Oil, Coconut Oil, Fractionated, Cocoa Oil, Candelilla Wax, Meadowfoam Seed Oil, Cocoa butter, Mango butter, Shea butter and Vitamin E. The results are: lipstick that will never bleed and moistens your lips all-day. Then you add mica, Iron Oxide and Titanium Dioxide, and you have the perfect formula.

Of course this lipstick is not cheap, however quality should never suffer ingredients and women should get what they pay for and rightfully so!!!
Natural preservatives: such as rosemary extract, vitamin C and E, citric acid, green and white tea extract (antioxidant), grape, apricot or pomegranate seed extract (Antioxidants) Vitamin B17 in apricot seeds has been said to be Anticarcinogenic. Tea tree extract as an antibacterial to also prevent spoiling. If one uses natural preservatives (in especially liquids), there will be no need for parabens.

Organic Cosmetics: Found in some high-end mineral cosmetics, however I would like to let you know the true amount found sometimes is questionable in that do they really do anything? Here is where the rule of one percent or less may come in to play! While it’s stated that if a product has one percent or less it doesn’t have to be listed as an ingredient!

Some cosmetic companies may list organic names like the list above of natural plant parts, when in fact they could be as little as one 10th of a percent or much lower. Remember even with this small amount of organic additives one can claim their cosmetics have natural or organic ingredients. The reason then for using the word organic drives the price up about 30% more than the standard pure minerals.

Here is some food for thought: during my research on organic extraction of plants I found out there could be as many as 200 chemicals in one plant. Now try to imagine processing only 3 or 4 chemicals that are pure enough to use as an additive. This means the overall process is time-consuming and time is money right? This is what lead me to believe that it would only stand to reason for one adding a specific additive that has a value may cost $35.00 for only a few grams or a mere 1/8 of an oz. How much product would a formulator add to a so called organic cosmetic. Of course then one might consider some additives may even cost more and after all profit is the results needed to stay in business.

Please realize that a plant has different parts, such as the steam that feeds the leaf and then there are the feeding veins to nourish the plant. During this natural process, insect’s fungus, mold and all of earth’s free radicals attack the plant life and often destroy or alter the plants (Anti-oxidants). Further some plants can only be grown and harvest at certain times of the year, for full benefits.

It’s in my option that organic research needs more investigation. However not by the FDA rather a private sector that is not basis and short handed. Perhaps organic matter that is pure belongs in our system through diet! Ingredient labels are important to read, as you now well know. 3 to 7 % of women can have an allergic reaction to certain organic plants and bi-products there of is why the FDA requires ingredient labels in the first place. The FDA has little control of ingredients with over 5000 listed in cosmetics! You can well bet some are rated at the 10 scales as being harmful as a rule these are laden chemical cosmetics.

Micronized and Nanoparticles: This falls in to common sense the smaller a particle is the deeper it can penetrate your skin. This defeats mineral cosmetics, because your pores will clog. Mineral cosmetics should’t clog your pores thus leaving you with a light protective covering that has a light feeling on your face.

This is one more reason I only use loose mineral cosmetics on my models, clients as well as students! Micronized and Nanoparticles are the result of minerals that our crushed or put in a blender. Most often used in preesed powders, because a chemical has to be added to press the powder. Yet most women like pressed powders because they are less missie than loose minerals. Perhap those of you who lean towards pressed powders should give them a second thought especaily knowing you most likely are’t getting what you pay for?

I give loose mineral cosmetics five stars for the simple reasons above and it appears fewer ingredients are needed and the best part is loose minerals will never require parabens or filers. While pressed minerals only get three stars because of additives most commonly used and micro as well as Nano particle size are not good for your pores.

Mineral Cosmetics and their ingredients: Part one

Mineral cosmetics companies are popping up on the Internet everyday with ingredients that are questionable as even being a pure mineral. Take bismuth oxychloride, while being in the mineral realm. Its a heavy metal and necessitates the constant buffing mineral makeup companies advise to force it into the skin and pores to keep it from sliding off your face. Over buffing of minerals can cause irritation and continuing inflammation on sensitive skin types. Further, it can make acne cystic by congesting pores and cause rosacea to flare. It is a by-product of lead and copper refining.


Bismuth oxychloride commonly used as cheap filler. Thus major makeup companies can make a larger profit by using it with a pure pigment! The weight of this bi-product is heavy; of course it is heavy, it has lead in it and lead does not belong on your skin! Moving right along, please listen up, here is why even the former laden chemical companies are using BO in major brands that are now joining in on the mineral cosmetic market!


BO is the world's cheapest filler. In conclusion, don't buy products that contain bismuth oxychloride in them, if you do your risking many skin issues that can cause irritation, reading the ingredients in the products that you buy is of the highest importance!!! Please read all the ingredients of all mineral products and if the company does not list ingredients, ask or by pass them altogether! My research shows that over 40% of mineral cosmetic companies don't even list any of there, ingredients online, however the FDA requires one to print a label and place it on the bottom of any containers shipping worldwide.

Here is a mineral cosmetic secret that few women know of, any product that has 1% or less of any ingredients the FDA say it doesn't have to be on a label! Consequently, companies don't list all of their ingredients. Some of the major brands out there also use another so to speak get out of jail free card by using these words (may contain bismuth oxychloride) if it says may contain my research shows BO is in your product. The exception to this rule is the use of (may contain Kaolin Clay); there are products that don't contain kaolin clay, however when making labels it's easer to just print may contain this ingredient. My research does show this not to be true with BO as this is a get out of jail card!

If a product does contain Ferric Ferrocyanide the FDA states it must be listed on a label because this is often used in deep blues for eye shadows. However ferric ferrocyanide is never safe on one's lips. Since your lips can transfer this product in to your bloodstream also Chromium Oxide Chromium Oxide Green is also not safe for your lips. Carmine (also called Crimson Lake) is safe for eye shadows, and used in some lipsticks.

Some women have allergic reactions to Carmine: Cochineal is the name of crimson or carmine dye and the cochineal insect (Dactylopius coccus), a scale insect in the suborder Sternorrhyncha, from which the dye is derived. Carmine used in mineral cosmetics eye shadows as a rule are low in percentage of volume however it’s really a choice for those who don’t like using any part of an insect on their skin!

Pure minerals are just what the statements means. Please realize there are many gimmicks out there, and I am only trying to give you some insight on what is going on with the mineral cosmetics of today! Because I am a research makeup artist I have spent one year learning what it’s all about and what one should divert their attention on and what to avoid. After all minerals are good for your skin in many ways, however one can defeat their own purpose of them when mislead with some commercials!!!


Pure minerals means no dyes or lakes like the chemical cosmetics have and they should be without talk powder as many women have an allergic reaction to talk. Natural pigments are used instead of dyes or lakes or should I say should be used. There is no reason for a true pure mineral to have any fillers. They should not have any of the following ingridents in them: Magnesium Stearate a filler and
Zinc Stearate used to fight mold.


These products are not needed in loose minerals. However you will find some of them in pressed powders. The most common minerals found are Mica: A virtually neutral, transparent mineral that transpire naturally in the earth's face and mined from all parts of the world. When purified and crushed into fine powders which are used in developing mineral makeup.

Titanium Dioxide: A naturally occurring mineral from the earth's surface. Provides long-lasting coverage for mineral makeup foundation, setting powders and provides a natural, broad-spectrum UV protection. Anti-inflammatory properties and May calm skin and prevent breakouts.
Which is good for your skin as a whole with its built in SPF 15.

Zinc Oxide: Anti-inflammatory with antimicrobial properties. It is the broadest spectrum UVA and UVB absorber that’s approved for use as a sunscreen by the FDA, and is completely photostable. It is also a main ingredient of mineral cosmetics.


Iron Oxides: are the most commonly used pigment for coloring cosmetics such as foundation and eye shadow. Mixing these three groups of Iron Oxide in different ratios produces various skin colors. Good formulators sometimes use Iron Oxide to correct undertones of mineral cosmetics that delete casting hues to ones skin tone.


Serecite: Fluffy translucent mica that may be used alone as a primer or setting powder and offers a silky texture to foundations and finalizers. Often used in mineral makeup formulas.

Ferric ferrocyanide: An organic pigment that provides blue tones to natural mineral pigments. Not safe for lip use.

Kaolin Clay: A pure cosmetic powder that absorbs moisture, helps keeps down shine, provides an opaque, white base for colors, and assists with adherence to skin. Kaolin Clay is odorless, has a smooth texture and often used in mineral makeup matte foundation formulas. You will note that most cosmetic companies add Kaolin Clay and Boron Nitride when their products contains BO it will aid in adhesion to ones skin! BO also creates a strong shine to your face and this is unnatural in the over all look.

Boron Nitride: The different forms of boron nitride provide slip, silkiness, adherence, and oil-absorption capabilities. Cosmetics Boron Nitride (BN) powder is a primary raw material for a wide range of cosmetic and skin care formulations, including foundations, Concealers and lipsticks, and sunscreens. Some advantages are increased adherence, smoother and softer feeling products, improved spread ability, extended wear, soft-focus properties oil absorption and to improve compressibility for pressed powders. It also brings out pigments to a brilliant color and has a positive effect on skin.

Rice Powder: A highly absorbent product stemmed from ground rice. Absorbs both moisture and oils. Leaves a soft, silky feeling when added to mineral makeup powders.


Mother-of-Pearl: Also know as Calcium Carbonate. Used as a whitener, oil absorber and filler, this fine white powder occurs naturally in marble, limestone, and oyster shells. Uses include pigment and pigment extender in cosmetics, mineral makeup, and as whitener in toothpastes. The use of Mother-of- pear is often used in pearly eye shadows. It is also often used as another filler, however in small amount of use it can make a unique look in cosmetics.



Pressed powders versus loose minerals: To press a powder a chemical must be added to compress it to a solid form. Here is the negative pressed powders can have, whenever you add a chemical to a mineral there is the chance of bacteria being put in it. The amount of product is also lessened, as the containers are compact in size. The product has been altering to micro size. I will talk more about micro products in another article. The only positive I can say are pressed powders are less messy and are easer to carry around with you!

Pure Loose Minerals never have additives: Pure means just that a process of advanced machinery the minerals go through. This means to you the consumer that loose minerals never need any paraben whatever, and even better yet you get what you pay for! While loose minerals never clog your pores, they can be reapplied as often as needed without ever giving you a caking feeling on your face.

Loose minerals do need a quality kabuki brush for their application and yes a little messier but worth it in the long run. For the best result swirl, a small amount of your loose minerals, angle your kabuki brush and swirl into the lid until all the minerals have been tucked into the bristles. Tap away excess. There should be no visible mineral on the outside the brush. Buff the minerals into the skin in a circular motion, starting on the outside your face near your cheekbone, swirling as you go. Buff around your face and then approach your forehead, cheeks, and nose.


Here ends part one.